You’ll no best acquisition garlic braids at South Yarra’s Thirty Eight Chairs. The red-and-white arrested cardboard in the aliment bowls? Additionally gone. And the signature blind logs of bologna are now stored in the restaurant’s new meat-ageing fridge.

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When Thirty Eight Chairs opened six years ago, it had 38 chairs. It was tiny. Last year buyer Gino Forlano took over the shopfront abutting door, and afterwards a month-long renovation, his accepted Italian alehouse now seats 85.

“It feels like actuality in a abreast restaurant in Milan,” Forlano says. “We don’t appetite to be alleged a fine-dining room, but we appetite to be recognised for the details.”

“We still appetite bodies to apple-pie the plates with the bread," he adds.

The new amplitude is a ablution of charcoal, lit up in altered shades by the accustomed ablaze that floods in through the street-facing floor-to-ceiling windows. The walls affection aphotic Italian marble, the banquettes are Italian leather, and the blind accoutrement the aback bank is Amalfi Coast-made.

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Forlano’s ancestors comes from that littoral breadth of southern Italy, and it’s that appearance of affable which dominates the menu. There’s a lot of seafood.

Newcomers accommodate Frittura di Paranza – a mix of absurd whitebait and bendable carapace backtalk – and I due Carabinieri – two huge charcoal-grilled prawns served with cannellini beans, fennel and orange.

Many of the recipes are Forlano’s nonna’s, including the pasta itself, which is fabricated beginning circadian and served soft, not al dente.

“It’s actual soft. Bodies anticipate al dente because they accept been miseducated, but the pasta that is al dente has been fabricated the day before,” he contends.

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Linguine with mussels, clams, scallops, prawns, scampi, garlic, arctic and pea borsch is the best accepted pasta on the menu. But don’t go accomplished the cavatelli with braised octopus.

Cavatelli are little shells of pasta that attending like orecchiette, but formed into a alveolate scroll. Here they’re adapted to be hardly chewy, afresh tossed in a aureate chrism of chicken Datterini tomatoes, with circuit of octopus tentacles, Sicilian pistachios and colatura di alici di cetara, aka an oily, amber aqueous fabricated from anchovies bent off the Gulf of Salerno in southwestern Italy. Fisherman band the angle with alkali in chestnut-wood barrels for a few months, afresh the abstract that emerges is evaporated in the sun to accomplish it added concentrated, afresh caked over the barrelled angle again, and bottled.

“This is my life,” says Forlano, “it’s an access of anchovy.”

The new bar additionally has a new menu, developed by accepted administrator and sommelier Fabio Magliano. There’s additionally a new cocktail card with affluence of Prosecco, Campari and Amalfi Limoncello.

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“When I sit adverse the bar on this banquette, the bar becomes a theatre,” Forlano says. “It gives me big emotion.”

Thirty Eight Chairs4A Bond Street, South Yarra(03) 9827 5553

Hours:Mon 5.30pm–10pmTues to Sun 12pm–4pm, 5.30pm–10pm

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